Before you call anyone, check two things. First, the wall button - press and hold it. If the door runs off the wall switch but not the remote, you're looking at a dead remote battery or a blown receiver antenna, not a motor problem. Second, look at the safety sensors near the floor on each side of the track. If either light is out or blinking, the opener will refuse to close the door at all, and that's often a sensor knocked out of alignment rather than a failed board. Both of those are five-minute checks that save you a service call. What you shouldn't do is open the motor housing yourself. On the older chain-drive units common in this part of the area, the capacitor inside can hold a charge even unplugged, and the gear assembly isn't a cheap part to guess wrong on. If the fix is still happening after you've checked the sensors and the remote battery, it's a motor or board issue, not something to keep testing.